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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, situated high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the family completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small shop achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.